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Chikankari Kurta with Hathkati Jali

                  Hi, i am back with one more chikankari stitch. The most beautiful part of chikankari is its Jali work ( open work ). And very often confused with Drawn thread. Jali work is nothing but "Pulled thread work " where warp and weft threads are teased apart to make small holes which are held together with minute stitches. Jali work are inspired by old buildings window specially from Jaipur.

Chikankari Kurta with Hathkati
              Its a white kurta with simple motif, a circle worked with three different ways using chikankari stitches.  First the left circle, center portion Phanda stitch encircled with two lines of keel stitch. Second circle, again center portion with Phanda stitch encircled with Hathkati jali, encircled with keel. Third the last circle worked with Hool stitch ( eyelet) encircled with Kaj ( Buttonhole) and later with keel stitch ( Roman/Romanian).

Hathkati Jali work

                     Hathkati jali is a row of square holes specially worked on boarder, center of flowers, veins of a leaf.

Chikankari kurta
              Hathkati jali, to work this form of jali you will need a strong and long needle and a regular sewing thread preferably same color of fabric. Hathkati jali is said to be " Point de Paris " stitch. Draw two lines horizontally one after the other, start working from right side of upper line, tease apart ( two lines, parallel) fabric vertically as shown in picture 3, its approximately 4 to 5 threads as seen in picture 4. Now warp these four thread together tightly working from up to down. Come up, now see picture 8, start working next column same way. Teasing fabric, proper tension and holding with minute stitches is important aspect of Hathkati jali.

Hathkati stitch
Hathkati Jali
                   Happy Stitching !!!!


  1. Thank you for this from Elaine in Australia! I had seen this lovely stitch and had wanted to know how it is done.

    1. Thank you Elaine, this stitch has made me crazy with sleepless nights, until i figured it out, actual working of this stitch.

  2. That's beautiful, Preethi! Thank you very much indeed. I love to do a little embroidery, now and again; but even more I love to look at beautifully done work closely and think " wow! Someone actually did this!" And if I can't figure out how it's done I have days of disquiet.
    I just discovered your post in my desperate search for tutorials / instructions of more intricate chikankari stitches, just as I had started to ask myself, "is it that closely guarded a secret?"
    Now I'm at peace.
    Could you also please show me the other kinds of jalis and how they are done? I'd be ever so grateful!

    1. Hi Neelam, thank you stopping by my blog. I too get frustrated if i am not able to crack stitches. And yes i am yet to crack few more working of jali stitches, once done will reflect through my blog !!!


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